Before You Begin- Surface Prep Tips

BE CAREFUL If debris is in the pores of your wood or concrete it may effect the anchoring of your Daich Stone coating. Surface Prep Tips Ensure all your surfaces are clean, dry and clear of debris.

Surface preparation is part of the the job.

Achieving a successful and lasting upgrade comes down to making sure your surfaces are clean, dry, clear of debris and ready to be coated. Use the tips provided below to get the maximum value for your investment! 

  • Concrete Surfaces
  • Wood Surfaces
  • Synthetic Surfaces

Is the surface suitable for coating?

Take an honest look at the surface you want to coat and choose the best path forward. A decorative stone coating like RollerRock®, SpreadRock® or SpreadStone™ will only be as dependable as the quality of surface that’s beneath it.

Good

If your concrete is in reasonably good shape – even with a few cracks or small holes – it can be easily prepared for a DAICH overlay coating.

Bad - Do not coat

If your concrete is in reasonably good shape – even with a few cracks or small holes – it can be easily prepared for a DAICH overlay coating.

  • DO NOT COAT IF - The concrete slabs are badly cracked and continue to move
  • DO NOT COAT IF - The slab has a continually powdery surface, this is a possible indicator of bad concrete
  • DO NOT COAT IF - You are attempting to cover interlocking stone pavers

Fix structural issues before you coat

If there are holes or cracks, now is the time to patch them up. A little time spent now will make a big difference in the final appearance and long term performance of your newly finished porch, steps, patio, and more.

Cracked Concrete

1) Hairline cracks usually do not require patching and can be coated normally when the decorative finish is applied.

2) Minor cracks can be filled with cement patch or ElastoLock Cement Patch or lastly a generous brush-applied coat of ElastoLock®.

3) Larger cracks will need to be filled with a suitable crack repair mortar. If the slab is still moving, the crack may reappear later on.

Heavily Pitted Concrete & Holes

Extensive surface pitting and unsightly large holes could transmit through your final finish. For ideal results, they should be skimmed smooth or filled with an adequate cement-based filler and allowed to cure fully before top-coating.

If your concrete is new, very smooth or powdery than etching is recommended

Just pour Daich Cleaner/Etcher onto wet concrete, scrub lightly and move the solution around with a stiff deck brush and let it fizz for a few minutes. After etching, thoroughly rinse away any residues. If the project is outdoors, follow with a good pressure wash for easiest, ultra-effective cleaning.

  • Add bonding profile to very smooth concrete such as garage floors
  • Open concrete pores for better penetration
  • Remove surface residues in new concrete
  • Remove efflorescence; a mineral salt that rises to the surface and blocks adhesion.

Clean your exterior concrete using a pressure washer

This is absolutely the most effective cleaning tool there is. Use at least 1700 p.s.i. with a “turbo nozzle” or “orbital tip” a few inches from the ground. Be sure to move slowly in a uniform SWEEPING MANNER.

DO NOT wave the washer back and forth quickly like a leaf blower. This will not clean properly in result in bonding issues. 

Is the wood suitable for coating?

Take an honest look at the surface you want to coat and choose the best path forward.

Good

If your concrete is in reasonably good shape – even with a few cracks or small holes – it can be easily prepared for a DAICH overlay coating.

Bad - Do not coat

If your concrete is in reasonably good shape – even with a few cracks or small holes – it can be easily prepared for a DAICH overlay coating.

  • DO NOT COAT IF - The wood covered with a previous coating that is peeling - strip down to bare wood
  • DO NOT COAT IF - The wood is oily such as cedar
  • DO NOT COAT IF - The wood with extreme checking / cracking - first replace the affected wood
  • DO NOT COAT IF - The wood is weak and/or spongy with obvious signs of rot - first replace affected wood
  • DO NOT COAT IF - The surface is plywood on an unsound structure - first improve the structure

Don't coat wet plywood

If any portion of the plywood surface needs to be cleaned, do not use large amounts of water, which will soak into the wood. A damp sponge for quick wipes is acceptable.

Otherwise sanding is recommended to “shave off” problematic areas and avoid water use before coating.

A wood moisture content of about 15% is ideal.

Interior Plywood Floors

1) Tap down any nails or tighten screws. If the head of the nail or screw looks rusty, it should be replaced with a new galvanized one.

2) Scuff the surface with 100 grit sandpaper to add surface tooth for better bond.

3) Vacuum all sanding dust CAREFULLY. Good vacuuming, means good performance.

4) Treat the seams between plywood sheets with DAICH ElastoLock Rubber Membrane Coating and Elastolock Seam Mesh.

Exterior Plywood Floors

1) Tap down any nails in the boards or tighten deck screws. If the head of the nail or screw looks rusty, it should be replaced with a new galvanized one.

2) Scuff the surface with 100 grit sandpaper to add surface tooth for better bond.

3) Vacuum all sanding dust CAREFULLY. Good vacuuming, means good performance.

4) Plywood must be at least 5/8 exterior grade on 16 joists. Posts should be installed to a depth below the frost line. Caulk all holes and gaps before proceeding with application of ElastoLock.

5) Treat the seams between plywood sheets — and then the general surface with DAICH ElastoLock Rubber Membrane Coating, and ElastoLock® Seam Mesh and Reinforcing fabric. This will create a highly durable, resilient, water-proof base upon which you can install your desired Daich decorative stone coating.

Cleaning Pressure Treated Lumber Boards

1) Wet a section of the deck with water and then pour on Daich UltraWash™ Pressure Treated Wood Cleaner. Give the planks a scrub with a deck brush to remove any dirt, surface residues and old gray wood fibers.

2) Rinse the surface thoroughly with a pressure washer to remove all wash residues.

3) Repeat these steps on remaining sections of the deck surface and then allow the boards to dry out thoroughly for a few days. (Moisture level in the wood can be accurately confirmed with a moisture meter. A reading of about 15% is ideal for long-term coating performance.)

Pressure Treated Lumber Pre-Coat Preparation

With the surface clean and dry, the following should be performed:

1) Tap down any nails in the boards or tighten deck screws. If the head of the nail or screw looks rusty, it should be replaced with a new galvanized one.

2) If the planks are very smooth, scuff the surface lightly with 80 grit sandpaper to add some surface profile for better bond. Thoroughly vacuum any dust created by scuffing.

3) Fill larger cracks, holes or “checking” in the boards with ElastoLock® Water-Proof Rubber Spackle for a flexible waterproof plug that will move with the surface.

4) Roll on a uniform, generous coat of ElastoLock® with a 3/8” roller. Brush ElastoLock in between the deck boards to waterproof those surfaces as well. Also, be sure to generously coat all cut ends of the planks to block water intrusion. (If possible, coat the underside of the deck with ElastoLock too, for ultimate water protection all around.)

ElastoLock will fill minor cracks and checking and create a more uniform, waterproof and resilient surface. It will also function as an intermediate coating and adhesion promoter for coatings that will follow. Allow 24 hours to dry before proceeding with the desired coating system.

Waterproofing wood is super easy

  • Fill larger cracks, holes or "checking" in pressure treated lumber boards
  • Fill larger cracks, holes or "checking" in the boards
  • Coat surfaces to create a highly durable, resilient, water-proof base for other Daich Stone Coatings

Sand to create a bond where there is none

The main challenge when applying any coating to synthetic or “man-made” surfaces, is the lack of surface texture and porosity. Unlike concrete and wood, which have pores in the surface that invite penetration and anchoring of the coating, synthetic surfaces are often very smooth.

The simple way to overcome this is to rough up the surface thoroughly before coating to give your new finish something to grab and lock on to. As well, the installation surface must be clean and in good condition. The excellent bonding power of the DAICH spreadable stone products will do the rest.

Linoleum

1) Vigorously scuff with 40-grit sandpaper to add profile.

2) Wash the floor to remove any dirt or debris.

3) Glue down lifting or separated seams. Patch any tears or holes with ElastoLock® Spackle or cement patch.

4) Where seam movement between linoleum parts is significant, ElastoLock can be used in combination with ElastoLock Seam Mesh Tape to create a flexible join.

Ceramic Tile Floors and Countertops

1) Scuff with 40 grit sandpaper to break the glaze.

2) Wash the floor or countertop to remove any debris.

3) Roll on a uniform coat of ElastoLock as an adhesion promoter for coatings that will follow. Let it dry until the following day before proceeding.

4) If the existing grout line pattern will be used on the floor, roll on a coat of Daich Textured Primer. After the primer has dried fully, mask off the grout lines with Daich Grout Line tape before applying your desired floor finish.

5) If a new grout pattern (or seamless application for your floor or TILE SURFACE) is desired, skim coat the surface with polymer enhanced thinset. This will eliminate all previous grout lines for a new, flat surface.

6) Proceed with the decorative Daich Coatings floor or countertop finish of your choice, as directed.